Istoria Bijuteriilor

History of Jewelry

Ever since the days when caves were considered luxury real estate, people have felt the need to decorate themselves...

With the few resources at hand, our predecessors sought to beautify themselves by wearing jewelry made from bones, teeth, shells, and more.

history of jewelry

Over time, new precious materials began to be used throughout this history of jewelry to create more complex accessories. Contrary to expectations, gold, the most noble metal, was the first on the list of discoveries. Due to its qualities such as malleability, special color but also resistance to oxidation, it quickly became the favorite material of all advanced civilizations.

Beginnings in the history of jewelry

Whether they were looking to flaunt their wealth or fulfill purely aesthetic desires, people's need to own impressive pieces drove artisans to surpass themselves. Rudimentary technology pushed them to develop new techniques such as filigree and beading. These gave rise to fine, lacy jewelry.

Gradually, precious stones were also incorporated into rings, bracelets, necklaces, and other jewelry. For example, the Sumerians, one of the oldest civilizations known to man, had a soft spot for Lapis Lazuli. This deep blue stone with golden streaks enchanted philosophers and poets.

Often, however, they also had a practical role. The folds of robes and other garments needed support, and people did not miss the opportunity to decorate them as they pleased. Jewelry reminiscent of brooches or the end of a belt were often decorated according to local dress.

With the advent of the Middle Ages in the history of jewelry, people began to pay more attention to clothing, and, implicitly, to adornments. A popular practice of the nobility who could afford this luxury was engraving pieces with inscriptions.

13th century gold brooch

For example, this gold brooch, dating from the 13th century, is inscribed with the text: "I am a brooch that will guard this chest so that no thief can get his hands on it."

The beauty and value of these objects are qualities that make them ideal for gifting.

The perfect gift…

Lovers often gave each other small symbols of their love. Heart-shaped brooches or rings often bore inscriptions or short quotes that reflected the sentiments behind the gift. "My heart belongs to you," "Inseparable," or "My whole heart is yours forever" are just a few examples.

But while these little dedications may seem heartfelt, more often than not they came from a jeweler's repertoire of quotes. These "personalized" pieces of jewelry from the early days of jewelry are not much different from today's. Whether we give them to ourselves or receive them from a loved one, the Love Letters silver necklace or the Loved gold bracelet convey messages whose meaning transcends the centuries.

Contrary to expectations, these jewels were not, however, the equivalent of today's engagement rings or wedding bands. They symbolized a promise, or a token of affection, rather than a commitment. The actual rings that marked the union of two people in the 16th and 17th centuries were a bit more special.

gym rings

Lovers of the Renaissance period in the history of jewelry preferred "gimmal" rings. These are made of two or more links that together form a whole. Young people, once engaged, used to wear one link each until the day of the ceremony. From the moment of the union of the two, the reunited ring belonged to the young woman.

To this day, this tradition of exchanging jewelry has remained almost intact. If in the past the ring bore numerous symbols or inscriptions, today the trend is towards minimalism. The stone that dominates this type of jewelry is the diamond.

Although it entered the jewelry scene relatively recently, in the 1940s, the diamond benefited from intensive advertising, thus becoming the most popular choice. Moreover, aggressive promotion has made this stone a standard to follow when it comes to engagement rings today.

History of jewelry in the 20th century

Looking back, a leitmotif of jewelry-wearing from the past to antiquity was the display of a man's wealth. The expensive gifts with which women were adorned functioned as a living testament to his power in society.

But, all this history of jewelry would change with the arrival of the 20th century. The possibility of earning a living gave women the freedom to choose their own lifestyle. This dramatic change in social norms was also reflected in clothing styles. Clothing took on a simple and loose cut on the body, and jewelry became the centerpiece of any outfit.

Dresses that slightly exposed the shoulders and did not even cover the ankles were not intended to immediately defy norms. They were designed to provide the freedom of movement necessary for an active lifestyle. Sports, driving luxury cars and dancing to jazz music were the favorite activities of the "Flapper" woman.

flapper women

Probably for the first time in the history of jewelry, it is no longer worn as an emblem of wealth, but for the wearer's own good.

Coco Chanel, a name that has not lost its resonance over the years, managed to eliminate this financial dependence on male partners through her clothing.

His style is emblematic, with simple cuts and an unprecedented modesty, but at the same time full of elegance. If ostentatious ornamentation had been the order of the day until then, the launch of this trend led to the need to reinvent jewelry.

Women were now encouraged to take control of their own jewelry. This allowed the Chanel woman to differentiate herself from those 'cocottes', women of questionable morals who took excessive pride in the extravagant gifts they received from their partners in exchange for services rendered.

A double-edged sword

Thus, many women chose to wear jewelry with elegance, as a testimony of good taste and self-proclaimed independence. But the evolution of precious accessories in the modern era did not stop there. Feminine ingenuity found in jewelry a way to express the opinions and attitude of the wearer.

madeleine albright jewelry history

Madeleine Albright, a powerful woman who served as the United States Secretary of State, used her passion for jewelry in a unique way. Her brooches became true diplomatic tools through which she was able to convey messages that transcended any cultural or linguistic barriers.

Symbols like the dove (peace), the sun (hope), and even the three wise monkeys were all worn by Albright in politically unstable situations. Thus, Albright was never afraid to express her point of view in a feminine and fully diplomatic way.

The history of jewelry dates back to the beginning of humanity and continues to be written by each of us. The way we choose to wear our jewelry defines us. Don't be shy about choosing jewelry that tells a story about you, lovingly offered by Indira Bijoux !

Bibliography:

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Bliss, Simon. Jewelery in the Age of Modernism 1918-1940. Bloomsbury Publishing USA, 2018.
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Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. 1959.
DeMello, Margo. Encyclopedia of Body Adornment. ABC-CLIO, 2007.
Friedman, Uri. "How an Ad Campaign Invented the Diamond Engagement Ring - The Atlantic." The Atlantic, The Atlantic, 13 Feb. 2015, https://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2015/02/how-an-ad-campaign-invented-the-diamond-engagement-ring/385376/.
"History of Gold." Only Gold, https://onlygold.com/facts-statistics/history-of-gold/#:~:text=The%20first%20use%20of%20gold,silver%20mixture%20known%20as%20'electrum. Accessed 26 Aug. 2020.
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Tait, Hugh. 7000 Years of Jewelry. Firefly Books Limited, 2008.
Turner, Ralph. Jewelry in Europe and America. Thames & Hudson, 1996.
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams. Rutgers University Press, 2003.

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